fluoroOriginal: The Spirit of Stanley
A unique ghostly habitat, typically reserved for affluent occupants – not spirits – is Stanley, Hong Kong.
Stanley defies storybook visuals of decay and daytime mist and holds an elitist position, poised on the property prices that claim the renowned land and adjourning South China Sea views. With a backdrop of lush hill sides and a forefront of ocean, Stanley is inescapably one of the more serene parts of this invasively populated and engulfing country.
Truly a tourist delight and residential testimonial to affluence, Stanley contrasts stereotypical ‘Ghost Town’ surroundings, yet is widely known as home to haunts, generated essentially from it’s politically tender past… and pirates.
Stanley’s brutish history of opium wars, western internments, haunted hotels and high schools – not to mention its eye-patch, treasure-hoarding, pirate-cove suspect past; AND its current position of being home to many a military headstone in the Stanely Cemetery – all result in the makings of a ghost story.
Not that the Hong Kongese are into stories. Statistically, they believe in ghosts more that feng shui and qigong, both staples of the traditional Chinese religion. And with the seventh lunar month on the Chinese calendar being dedicated to the dead, ghosts are an anticipated occurrence, said to be released from the ashen depths of Hell to take a breather – Hong Kong being a popular destination choice perhaps due to the alignment of the air pollution levels.
During this spiritual liberty that spans the 30 days of August, dubbed the “Hungry Ghost” month, Hong Kong elevates all efforts to either keep their deceased ancestors happy. Methods include serving elaborate dinners to an empty seat at the family dining table, or if you’re a Madam in Hong Kong’s red light district, Wan Chai, to maintain distance and keep the once-customers-now-ghosts at bay, by hitting old burning photos with the sole of a flip-flop in public places.
August in Hong Kong comes thick with the smoke of Joss Paper as it snakes its way into the attire of passers-by. Incense becomes the perfume of the city as elderly take to the streets with flame and conviction, the goal: ghostly communication via methods of fiery civilian obstruction. Every door, restaurant, club and cafe present the pasty ethereal visitors with either fire or food – the food of choice being cherries and mandarins, the seasonally fresh and acknowledged offerings that sit aside tea-lights and gutters.
The most generous of gifts bestowed upon the afterlife are burnt offerings of Gucci bags, Mercedes, and even Maids – delights to be taken to the next realm as products of wealth and help. All of which are in the form of paper-mâché may I add and these being the most telling of Hong Kong culture and its affinity to both the supernatural and the superficial… just as Stanley is a draw card for both the ghosts and the wealthy and alike.
Words by Jasmine Webster.
Photography by Darren LeBeuf.
