Dries Van Noten: Inspirations

A retrospective exhibition at times can feel like a memorial service that marks the end of a moment. On rare occasions a display of works can serve a feeling that is present and enduring; the documentation of process.

The Dries Van Noten Exhibition at the Musée des arts Décoratifs in Paris reflects on the career, life and the core message explained in the show’s title, ‘Inspirations’. The exhibition (curated by Pamela Goblin) offers over 400 beautifully curated costumes including Haute Couture, footwear, Ready to Wear, paintings, sculpture and fine arts works. Also on display is the rare appearance of the designer’s graduate collection, who at age 18 had enrolled into the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, Belgium.

As a renegade of his time, Van Noten’s first collection was presented in London alongside ‘The Antwerp Six’, before the launch of his house in 1986. The group of young designers were soon a symbol of the rise of Belgium fashion.

Throughout the exhibition a display of borrowed works highlight those that have influenced Van Noten’s creative process. Carefully displayed alongside Van Noten’s own collection are the worlds of the late Gianni Versace, Yves Saint Laurent, Thierry Mugler through to Elsa Schiaparelli and Christian Dior.

The exhibition is separated into titles such as Duke, Garden, Spain and India, all of which are themes that demonstrate the designers intersecting points of curiosity.

A diverse range of works are on show from a sketch of costumes from the Ballet Russes through to a signature bleeding work of German painter, Gerhard Richter. Presented in detail is a Christians Dior new look wasp waist jacket, which has been paired with an Yves Klein sculpture. This marry leads the viewer to a framed red Spanish boot from a Pedro Almodovar film.

Carefully selected Van Noten pieces are displayed alongside artefacts and objects borrowed from museums from all over the world, revealing the coexistence of fashion and art. British painter Francis Bacon, whose informed colour fabrication and texture sits alongside a Van Noten garment, is a clear influence on the designer.