Milan Fashion Week AW15/16 Menswear: Concludes
As Paris Men’s Fashion AW15/16 prepares to commence, Milan Fashion Week AW15/16 menswear comes to a close.
The designers featured showcased collections ranging from contemporary simplicity, to unconventional boldness. We take a look at highlights from the week.
Jil Sander
Having worked in womenswear at Romeo Gigli, Prada and Vionnet, Creative Director Rodolfo Paglialunga made his transition into menswear with the launch of his first collection for Jil Sander at Milan Fashion Week. The AW15/16 collection had a youthful, no-fuss nature with oversized trousers, leather boots, chunky sweaters and outlandish colours characteristic of a modern day wardrobe. The Italian designer also incorporated sculptured and structured separates and mannish outwear.
Philipp Plein
One certainty is that we can never be sure where the imagination of Plein will take us. The AW15/16 collection titled #PleinWarriors focused heavily on sportswear elements, specifically the armour worn in the likes of American football, with models in breastplates, knee pads and odd spiked helmets. T-shirts were embellished with crocodile and python inserts and the panther appeared on jackets and trainers featuring red and blue LED lights around the soles. The fabrics centred on soft leather, python and double-faced fur presented in a minimal selection of bold colours black, grey and khaki. The style of the collection was highlighted by graffiti covered space and a performance by Snoop Dogg with a rendition of the classic track “Who am I (What’s my Name)”.
Prada
In the new collection Prada displayed the remarkable results of gender exploration where designs for men and women intentionally mirrored each other rather than borrow from each other’s looks. Instead of a boyfriend aesthetic for women and androgyny for men, Prada turned to uniformity, splitting between men’s and woman’s designs. Show notes declared this ‘game changing’ and very unconventional collection as an opportunity to “measure what genders share, [and] what they take from each other”. This is an example of the increasing role that fashion weeks are playing as platforms for designers to share their views.
Next we take you to Paris Men’s Fashion Week AW15/16, which will commence tomorrow with the likes of Lucien Pellat Finat, 22/4_Hommes, Valentino, Raf Simons and more. For more fashion insights including coverage of Pitt Uomo 87, Cottweiler’s new collection and Givenchy’s SS15 campaign featuring actress Julia Roberts, visit our fashion archives.
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