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Haute Couture SS15: Final Days

The Paris Haute Couture SS15 season concludes today. We bring you the highlights from Ellie Saab, Viktor&Rolf, and Jean Paul Gaultier, three collections that stood out for their drama, diversity and direction

For his SS15 collection the Lebanese designer, Ellie Saab, drew inspiration from his 60’s childhood in the “golden age” of Beirut, a city that seemed to be always decorated for a never-ending party. It is this background that gave Saab the taste for sequins and crystals he has become known for. However, aside from a sparkling black dress, the collection presented this year had a new, discrete type of elegance and the feel of enchanted fantasy. The jumpsuits, robe coats and gowns presented had just enough shimmer to be glamorous in a refined, relaxed way. The fabrics used were lightweight and flowing and included lace and tulle. The colours were soft covering ivory, powder pink, blue grey and green. Sequins, beads, feathers, floral motives and embroideries adorned the looks presented, reinforcing the enchanted wonderland theme.

In a more dramatic manner, Viktor&Rolf presented a collection of A-line dresses that turned Van Gogh’s impressionist art works into 3D sculptures of haute couture costumes. Art collector Han Nefkens, who will donate them to Rotterdam’s Museum Boijmans Van Beuningen, bought the first three dresses presented on the runway. Three-dimensional adornments of flowers and decorations stretched from the dresses, and extended upward to join the horizontal straws of exaggerated straw hats. As the show progressed headgear and dresses continued to merge while colours grew more intense and decorative flowers reached further from the dresses. The colour palette was broad and included red, greens indigo blue, burnt red, orange and yellow.

As is expected of Iconic-French designer, Jean Paul Gaultier experimented with contrasts to express the differences and opposites. The models, all unique in their way, wore a collection which included unconventional wedding dresses, natural as well as urban inspirations. They were characterised by playful asymmetries in the cuts as well as material and colours of the looks. Dresses were fitted on one side and flowing on the other. A bridal dress was half dress, half pants. The collection featured several black and white looks, but also included beige-brown, bronze, ivory as well as more strong colours like hot pink, neon green, red and python print. Read more about Jean Paul Gaultier’s unique style here.

More fashion updates, including Copenhagen Fashion Week SS15 will be available on fluoro. Stay tuned.

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Sat 31 Jan 15

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Beirut – Boijmans Van Beuningen – Elie Saab – France – Jean Paul Gaultier – Paris – Paris Haute Couture – Rotterdam – SS15 – Van Gogh – Viktor&Rolf

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