Victoria Todorov: A Journey into Fashion
Victoria Todorov was initially drawn to graphic design and collage: in short, the art of image-making. Whether these images were drawn from the Internet or magazines, the layering of different sources added depth to each creation. “I’ve always loved the Byzantine period. My tastes can be quite ’maximal’ even though my clothing designs are often minimal,” says Todorov.
Todorov, who is self-taught, was accepted in the fashion program at RMIT University immediately after leaving school. However, after a year, she decided not to complete the course. “The program is extremely technical, particularly in the first year,” says Todorov, who steered towards styling for fashion magazines, while pursuing the idea of having her own collection under her own name.
While some creatives talk endlessly about pursuing a career in fashion, others, such as Todorov, act upon it. And in early 2014, her first collection was launched inspired by Greek mythology. Predominantly black, with one garment entirely red, there was a sense of the blood stained history coming through Greek pathos. For SS15, the fabrics, as well as the mood, are considerably lighter. This collection was inspired by Martin Scorsese’s 2010 documentary film Public Speaking, which tells the true story of a man who purchased a Picasso, but tragically put his elbow through the canvas. “The film started me thinking about the ‘blind collection’ of art for financial gain,” says Todorov, who designed a number of sheer mesh-like-garments that had the fragility of a torn canvas.
The Blind Collection with mesh panels artfully framed in black cotton, and tied at the sides, is pivotal to the range. Another, entitled the Bag Dress, evokes the need for fashion to be consumed, like collecting products on a supermarket shelf. Complete with roomy bag-like pockets that sit awkwardly on the hip, this design captures the backstory of Scorsese’s film, as much as providing a comfortable and easy item of clothing to wear. Todorov’s angular pants also pay lip service to the torn Picasso canvas. Pleated trousers, and even a backpack with a train of pleats formed part of this collection. “It’s combining the dress codes of the street with a functional back pack,” says Todorov.
Not surprisingly, Archive, in Melbourne’s Central Business District, which stocks vintage Japanese fashion, picked up on Todorov’s Blind Collection. Todorov’s strong silhouettes perfectly compliment some of the stores key labels, including Issey Miyake and Comme des Garçons. With the success of the Blind Collection, Todorov is now working on her first men’s range, entitled Todorov Homme. Based on corporate codes in men’s fashion and career anxiety, this latest collection beautifully fuses work-wear with fine tailoring. A workman’s style jacket is reinterpreted with a leather collar and sleeves. Another jacket, made from cashmere and wool, features a placard across the chest, both as a fastening detail and point of difference. Another design for winter is a Mongolian fur coat, created in a series of panels.
“I’m always driven by a concept and seeing new ways of constructing a garment,” says Todorov, who is inspired by the work of legendary fashion designer Paul Poiret, known for his ability to express clothes in flat shapes.
For Todorov, the pleasure of creating not only comes from film and images, but also from seeing people wear her design. “It’s extremely satisfying seeing my designs on people. They might not always see the backstory of the designs. But you can see their satisfaction when they emerge from the dressing room.”
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